They are two of the most famous active ingredients, but are we using them correctly? Here’s a look at how hydroxy acids work from the experts.
Glycolic acid promotes cell renewal in the upper layers of the skin through exfoliation. It helps heal UV damage and lightens dark spots. That’s why it’s common to see glycolic acid in products for facial blemishes. Salicylic acid, on the other hand, treats acne by reducing inflammation and redness. It’s also used for clogged skin pores, allowing pimples to shrink.
So far so good, but — as we said before — they are active ingredients that have several functions and, for that reason, they are sometimes confused. That’s why we’re going to talk to several experts so they can explain exactly what each one is used for and what these ingredients can do for our skin if we have pimples.
You’ve probably seen some of these acronyms more than once and you tend to confuse them. It’s normal, but, from now on, you’ll know how to distinguish each one perfectly. Hydroxy acids are divided into three categories according to their chemical structure.
AHAs (Alpha hydroxy acids). They are water-soluble (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid) and have a superficial exfoliating action that improves the texture and luminosity of the skin.
BHAs (Beta hydroxy acids). They are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate the pores (salicylic acid) deep cleansing the pores, treating acne and controlling excess oil.
PHAs (Poly hydroxy acids). They have a larger molecular structure than AHAs, which makes them gentler (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid), they are ideal for gentle exfoliation, hydration and care of sensitive skin.
“The ones we are looking at today belong to the first two categories. Glycolic is an alpha hydroxy acid, it is hydrophilic and we use it to exfoliate the surface of the skin, to treat fine wrinkles, spots and improve the luminosity of the skin,” explains the dermatologist.
While alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, are hydrophilic, they have a greater appetite for water, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are lipophilic, they have a greater appetite for fat. Therefore, as the expert maintains, “fat accumulates at the exit of the pore (hair follicle) and helps dissolve sebum, which is why it is used to treat clogged pores, blackheads and acne.”
